lectures & courses catalog

Japanese Deconstructivism in Fashion

This course revolves around an important generation in the history of fashion known as ‘Japanese deconstructivists.’ Some scholars argue that it began with Kenzo Takada and Hanae Mori, although it is undeniable that their period of greatest prominence was during the 80s with Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, and Rei Kawakubo. The legacy of these designers continues to influence contemporary fashion figures such as Jun Takahashi, Junya Watanabe, Chitose Abe, and Kunihiko Morinaga.

Japonism in Fashion and Art: Telling the Story between Japan and Europe

In this course, we propose a journey through centuries of history, art, and culture to recount the relationship of inspiration and imagination between Japan and Europe. From the early contacts initiated by the Portuguese in the 16th century to the strong Dutch presence during most of the Edo period (1603-1868), we will encounter prominent figures from the forefront of art and fashion — such as Claude Monet, Vincent Van Gogh, Madeleine Vionnet, and Paul Poiret — creating ideas of Japan that didn’t necessarily have parallels in reality but translated the expectations and perceptions of this vibrant world.

We will finally arrive in the present day, where Japonism continues to inspire not only the West but also Japan itself in its quest to narrate its own version of these events.

The Westernization of Attire in Japan: From Edo to Reiwa

This course delves into the nuances of sartorial modernization in Japan following the intensive contact with the West after the reopening of Japanese ports to international trade in 1853. We will showcase how fashion has been and continues to be integral to this modernization project, serving as a fundamentally visual domain wherein world values and ideologies can be easily and quickly illustrated. We will traverse through various historical moments in Japan, from the end of the Edo Era to the present Reiwa Era, where fashion remains a significant realm, not only commercially but primarily in aesthetics and social representation.

Readings of Contemporary Japanese Art and Society (1970 onwards)

The post-war period in Japan brought about various challenges and the need for readjustments in a society already devastated not only by armed conflicts but also by the rapid transformations throughout and after the Meiji Era (1868-1912). From the prosperous future projected by the Economic Miracle of the 1960s, the 1964 Olympic Games, and the Expo ’70 in Osaka, to the burst of the economic bubble in the so-called Lost Decade (1990s), contemporary Japan has a history that bears resemblance, especially when seeking to understand the current state of arts and popular culture.

The boom of Cool Japan from the 1990s onwards, which led to the massive export of anime, manga, and other symbols chosen to represent Japanese culture worldwide, revolutionized how art, economy, politics, and society intertwine in the third millennium. While highly technological, Japan still preserves many traditional ideas and institutions. For example, it remains one of the only countries in the world to still consider itself in a post-war era.

The aesthetics of coexistence in ANREALAGE and techno-animism in Fashion

Kunihiko Morinaga is the creator and creative director behind ANREALAGE, a brand that has been captivating the world with its mysteriously bold propositions since its foundation in Tokyo in 2003. This is because mystery, subjectivity, apparent paradoxes, and aesthetic experimentation are part of the brand’s DNA, now presenting its collections as part of the prestigious schedule of Paris Fashion Week.

Divided into three phases, this course will focus on the analysis of the last and current stage, initiated in the fall/winter 2013 season and characterized by the intense use of unusual technological resources for fashion, such as ultraviolet rays, augmented reality, and holograms.

Japanese Fashion? Debates on Subcultures, Technology, and Contemporaneity

In this series of classes, we will explore fashion in all its analytical potential with the aim of discussing contemporaneity in Japan.

We will delve into the multiple inquiries surrounding the term ‘Japanese fashion,’ which is both problematic and necessary from numerous perspectives. Next, we will immerse ourselves in the theme of urban subcultures, such as Lolita and Gyaru, and their relationship to the social and economic crisis of the 90s and 2000s. Finally, we will address the cyberpunk genre and the production of contemporary artists as catalysts for a debate on the intertwining of fashion, art, and technology.

The modan gāru and the performance of modernity in Taishō Japan

The mōga, an abbreviation for modan gāru (‘modern girl’), represent one of the feminine images – perhaps the most radical – during the early years of the Taishō period.

Inspired by the European femme moderne and the American flapper, both born in the post-World War I context, the mōga made modernity visible and performative through their short hair, knee-length dresses, sportswear, and prominent presence in dance halls, cafes, and department stores. Appropriating Western cultural materialism, they played a significant role in introducing political and sexual debate into the agenda of reshaping women within Japanese society.

Specialized consulting

If you need any customized material, research, lecture, or course involving:

• Japanese fashion
• Japanese aesthetic sense
• Japanese philosophy

Please send an email detailing your needs, and I will contact you (available in English, Portuguese or French).