{"id":365,"date":"2026-10-31T01:46:09","date_gmt":"2026-10-31T05:46:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/?page_id=365"},"modified":"2026-10-31T11:27:25","modified_gmt":"2026-10-31T15:27:25","slug":"research","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/research\/","title":{"rendered":"research"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Research & writing<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How literature writes the fashion system<\/em><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

I read literature through clothing. Fashion, with its logic of imitation, distinction and change, offers a way into how novels portray society, identity and the body. My current project starts with Balzac.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Current project<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dress in Balzac, between social sign and lived body<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In La Com\u00e9die humaine<\/em>, clothes are evidence: Balzac\u2019s narrators read a waistcoat or a frayed collar the way a detective reads a clue. But his characters also live in their clothes, cold, constrained or disguised in them. My project holds both sides together, drawing on fashion theory, especially Gilles Lipovetsky and Georg Simmel, and on my training in phenomenology.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It returns to the subject of my first paper (2015) and article (2017), on fashion in Le Colonel Chabert<\/em>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Research direction<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The fashion system in literature<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Beyond Balzac, I\u2019m interested in how modern literature registers the fashion system itself: the rhythm of novelty, the fascination with modernity, the pull between imitation and distinction, and the way clothes make and unmake social identities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is the direction I\u2019m developing in my graduate research in literary studies.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Earlier research<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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My master\u2019s at the University of S\u00e3o Paulo studied fashion and aesthetics through the work of the designer Kunihiko Morinaga (ANREALAGE), under the supervision of Prof. Michiko Okano. Earlier papers and courses, on Japonisme, sumptuary laws and fashion subcultures, are listed below.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Conference talks<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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2021<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Japonism and Attire in the Construction of an Imagined Japan<\/p>\n\n\n\n

International Meeting on Image Studies, State University of Londrina, Brazil<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2021<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Aesthetics of Techno-Coexistence in the Fashion Design of Kunihiko Morinaga from ANREALAGE<\/p>\n\n\n\n

XVII International ALADAA Conference, Universidad San Francisco de Quito, Ecuador<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2021<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kunihiko Morinaga\u2019s \u201cBiodegradation\u201d and the Human\u2013Nature\u2013Technology Relation in Modern Japan<\/p>\n\n\n\n

XIII International Conference of Japanese Studies in Brazil, University of Bras\u00edlia<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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ANREALAGE\u2019s Design and the Japanese Experience of Modernity<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Japanese Studies in Postgraduate Studies colloquium, University of S\u00e3o Paulo<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2018<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Gender and Sexuality in Quicksand<\/em>, by Tanizaki Jun\u2019ichir\u014d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

XII International Conference of Japanese Studies in Brazil, University of Bras\u00edlia<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2015<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fashion and Literature in Le Colonel Chabert<\/em>, by Honor\u00e9 de Balzac<\/p>\n\n\n\n

III Meeting of Literary Studies, Federal University of Pelotas<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Publications<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Full texts on Academia.edu \u2192<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cJapanese Fashion Subcultures as an Act of Resistance.\u201d In A. Avancini, M. Hashimoto Cordaro and M. Okano (eds.), Ecos de Cat\u00e1strofes<\/em>, GEAA, pp. 361\u2013385. Chapter<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Techno-animism and the Aesthetics of Coexistence in the Fashion of Japanese Brand ANREALAGE.<\/em> University of S\u00e3o Paulo. Monograph<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2021<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yoshimasu G\u014dz\u014d, \u201cA New Way of Grasping Ma<\/em> (Aida),\u201d translated into Portuguese. In Conceitos est\u00e9ticos<\/em>, Federal University of S\u00e3o Paulo. Translation<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2018<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe Indissociability Between Literature and Society in \u2018Patriotism\u2019 (1961) by Mishima Yukio,\u201d with A. Sparemberger. Estudos Japoneses<\/em>, no. 39, pp. 93\u2013107. Article<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2018<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMinotaur vs. Godzilla: Greco-Japanese Syncretism in Jo\u00e3o Paulo Cuenca\u2019s The Only Happy Ending for a Love Story is an Accident<\/em>,\u201d with J. L. P. Ourique. Revista Olho d\u2019\u00e1gua<\/em>, 10, pp. 79\u201391. Article<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2017<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe Interface Between Fashion and Literature in Balzac\u2019s Novel Le Colonel Chabert<\/em>,\u201d with M. G. S. Machado. Lettres Fran\u00e7aises<\/em> (UNESP Araraquara), 18, pp. 247\u2013261. Article<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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2017<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSumptuary Laws in Japan: The Role of Fashion in Maintaining the Tokugawa Regime and Edo Period Society,\u201d with A. Sparemberger. XXVI Scientific Initiation Congress, Federal University of Pelotas. Proceedings<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Research & writing How literature writes the fashion system I read literature through clothing. Fashion, with its logic of imitation, distinction and change, offers a way into how novels portray society, identity and the body. My current project starts with Balzac. Current project Dress in Balzac, between social sign and lived body In La Com\u00e9die […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-365","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/365","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=365"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/365\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":417,"href":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/365\/revisions\/417"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rafaelhett.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=365"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}